Topic: 350 or Bust - Love me some D: Getting a tune (Read 57148 times)

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #60 on:** May 09, 2009, 11:06:56 AM »

Quote from: ifly87 on April 22, 2009, 03:58:45 AM

And how do you control the idle?

Crome

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #61 on:** May 14, 2009, 03:13:39 PM »

Here's where she sits. About 700 mi on the engine

Plenty of room for maybe a top mount? I haven't decided on what turbo manifold I'm going to make. The oil pan is already tapped to have the drain in the middle

The one solid mount I have finished and installed. I still need a pass side tranny mount for an EG for cheap. Don't care what shape it's in as long the 'shell' is intact. Window weld or whatever is fine, its getting my rHMT treatment

Did this at the strip the first time I ran the car there

First run, wheel hop like a mofo. Second run, I preloaded the axles, then went to launch, and the engine spun and I didn't go anywhere. I thought it might have popped out of first, but that was quickly confirmed wrong

So anyway, I've got an axle that the outboard CV joint lost the retaining clip that holds the end on the stick. It tore the boot, but other than that it was in good shape. I want to save it and Honduhs service manual just says, "Do not attempt to dissasemble." Well tough shit, cause it kinda dissassembeled itself. I want to put it back together and I can't figure out how the hell it goes. I afro engineered the snap ring. I grinded it down and now it's a C clip that I just drove on the end with a punch. The problem is that these bearings

wont' go into the end

without the actual stick not being there. I can get 3 in but after that I can't figure out how to get it to do shit. Then when you put the bearings in before you put the end on the stick, you can't get to the C clip to snap it on the end

Anyone ever rebuilt an outboard CV joint? I'm at a loss, any help would be appreciated

92CXyD · « **Reply #62 on:** May 14, 2009, 04:23:40 PM »

just by a new axle it is cheaper usually like $50 to 75 after your old turned in as a core. ;D

most of the people I know keep an extra axle or two handy when they go drag racing. :yes:

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #63 on:** May 14, 2009, 04:26:24 PM »

Quote from: 92CXyD on May 14, 2009, 04:23:40 PM

just by a new axle it is cheaper usually like $50 to 75 after your old turned in as a core. ;D

new axles aren't cheaper. this one was free and i'm trying to save it. i spent a whole 83 cents on a snap ring

caged · « **Reply #64 on:** May 15, 2009, 03:13:35 AM »

Iv had a few apart, I cant remember the trick tho. It only goes in one way, I think it just takes time playing with it.

That Guy · « **Reply #65 on:** May 15, 2009, 03:24:52 AM »

most times in my experience, once it goes back together indexed differently it will vibrate at high speeds due to the balancing job being done in one position and your assembly in another. Sometimes they take out bearings and seals in transmissions. be careful if you do get it together ;D

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #66 on:** May 15, 2009, 10:15:17 AM »

Quote from: That Guy on May 15, 2009, 03:24:52 AM

most times in my experience, once it goes back together indexed differently it will vibrate at high speeds due to the balancing job being done in one position and your assembly in another. Sometimes they take out bearings and seals in transmissions. be careful if you do get it together ;D

interesteing. the car has been on auto-x and drag strip duty only so I don't think it would be a huge deal.

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #67 on:** May 30, 2009, 03:56:24 PM »

Well, I left for vacation last week, and the same day I was doing a grocery run and a local city cop pulled me over. Comes up to the window and says, "I pulled you over because your inspection sticker is a year outta date. Want to tell me about it?" I laughed a little and told him I just bought it and got it running and haven't had time to fix a few small things (high beams, and the exhaust) before I could get it inspected and it would pass. Luckily the week before I actually got the thing put in my name, the proper tags, and got insurance on it so I was legal there except for the 5/08 inspection. I was hoping to have it built and off the road for track use only but I guess I gotta fix some things first. Probably for the best. I have horrible luck avoiding the cops.

Going to start building the kit this comming week.

chris · « **Reply #68 on:** May 31, 2009, 01:58:50 PM »

if you need a mount 15 shipped

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #69 on:** May 31, 2009, 06:04:53 PM »

Quote from: chris M on May 31, 2009, 01:58:50 PM

if you need a mount 15 shipped

a pass side engine mount?

chris · « **Reply #70 on:** June 02, 2009, 12:56:59 AM »

Quote from: onlyflash944 on May 31, 2009, 06:04:53 PM

Quote from: chris M on May 31, 2009, 01:58:50 PM
if you need a mount 15 shipped

a pass side engine mount?

yup the one on top of the transmission

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #71 on:** June 02, 2009, 01:00:49 AM »

Quote from: c0mpl3x on June 02, 2009, 12:49:35 AM

toyota 4wd front axle rebuild = your answer on how to do honda axle rebuild same shit

Yea, don't own a 'yota. But I did manage to get the axle back together with the help of a die grinder. The bearings should stay in there, but it will definatley be for backup only.

Today, I 'fixed' the exhaust, I'll try to snap a picture tomorrow of the O0ness. Also, I think the reason my high beams won't work is in the combination light switch. I have low beams, pull the switch, they go off and no highs or the blue symbol on the instrument cluster. Anyway, I have an extra that I know works so I'm going to swap them out tomorrow and hopefully get the car inspected so I can avoid another ticket.

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #72 on:** June 03, 2009, 10:43:03 PM »

I checked the fuses for the high beams before I was going to swap out the switch, and then I remembered; I was popping fuses in my other Honda when I was using the wideband on the cig lighter power source and so I had to rob fuses out of this one to get the wideband to work. Yep, I'm an idiot with no memory. Threw two fuses in (from the other Hodna) and I'm going to get it inspected tomorrow. Lets hope they don't care about the rust holes, or the exhaust leak at the muffler. Everything else will be leagal after I buy a pass side windshield wiper.

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #73 on:** June 05, 2009, 04:59:19 PM »

After failing the inspection this morning, I decided to start on my exhaust manifold.

Raw materials

Band saw and jig

First cut

Eyeballing the second cut

Then the blade broke on the band saw

I don't have any more thin discs so I'm headed to True Value to pick up a couple more. Also need a little more sch 40 pipe to make the 1 and 4 runners. Hopefully will get a little more done today or tomorrow.

caged · « **Reply #74 on:** June 05, 2009, 05:34:40 PM »

nice band saw, what did they fail on the car?

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #75 on:** June 05, 2009, 05:36:40 PM »

Quote from: caged on June 05, 2009, 05:34:40 PM

nice band saw, what did they fail on the car?

driver's side window crank was 'missing' in the floor of the pass side, blower motor is not working, and I didn't fool them with the resonator looks like a cat trick

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #76 on:** June 06, 2009, 11:44:13 AM »

negative, va 24060

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #77 on:** June 14, 2009, 12:03:10 AM »

Got the second cut done and tacked

Fits like a glove.....

Picked up some new wheels

Not sure about the off set and how well they will fit but I love this style

What brand drag radials does everyone like?

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+T%2FA+Drag+Radial
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+T%2FA+Drag+Radial+2
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOO-17310/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-3751R/

hotrex · « **Reply #78 on:** June 14, 2009, 12:10:14 AM »

im runnin the mt 225/50s on my civic. they are the best shit going.

btw wtf are u using the threaded end of that pipe on your clollector. thats not a good idea.

turbob16hatch · « **Reply #79 on:** June 15, 2009, 05:40:51 PM »

he's using an angle grinder to make a collector and your worried about the threaded part being at the collector.

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #80 on:** June 15, 2009, 05:49:05 PM »

Collector almost finished. Probably will hit it with the chipping hammer and a wire brush to see if I need to go over anything again

1/8" 6013 @ 95 amps FTW

Anyone have a good deal on some drag radials to fit my new 15 spokes let me know.

malichite · « **Reply #81 on:** June 15, 2009, 11:43:48 PM »

That shit is pro right there. Rocking straight up farmer rod to get that shit done. Thats motherfucking RHMT right there

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #82 on:** June 16, 2009, 01:28:45 PM »

Quote from: c0mpl3x on June 15, 2009, 11:34:10 PM

it'll look like ass once you chip that slag off

Trust me when I say I'm all go and no show

malichite · « **Reply #83 on:** June 17, 2009, 01:06:30 AM »

We can tell

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #84 on:** June 24, 2009, 11:08:50 PM »

Had an hour of free time today. Here's the collector cut, and 'smashed' flat on one side to fit the T3 flange

Test fit before I cleaned up the edges

You can see where I hit the point of the inside of the collector just to clean it up a little. I'm going to go back and clean it up real good with some more die grinder action and a few sand paper rolls

The plan is to tack weld one runner, collector, and both flanges together, then try a test fit

Then once I'm happy with fitment and clearances, finish making the other runners

Any tips on what order to finish weld everything up?

hotrex · « **Reply #85 on:** June 30, 2009, 10:39:53 PM »

dude why did u use the threaded part of the nipple u clearly bought from home depot. the metal is significantly thinner where its ben threaded/ anyways weld the two inner runners firts then the two outers.

Ghetto_D · « **Reply #86 on:** July 01, 2009, 06:49:20 PM »

i am going to agree with mr hotrex. on that one. Weld the two inner ones first, especially if your using a mig.

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #87 on:** July 06, 2009, 06:17:20 PM »

Quote from: hotrex on June 30, 2009, 10:39:53 PM

dude why did u use the threaded part of the nipple u clearly bought from home depot. the metal is significantly thinner where its ben threaded/ anyways weld the two inner runners firts then the two outers.

At the time I started the manifold, the piece of pipe was the only straight I had. It came from work, a cement plant, and I know the metal is thinner, I've already thougth about having to turn the amps down when welding to that runner. It won't be an issue and it will still probably turn out better than some of your manifolds from the past.

Thanks for the tips on what to weld first, I was planning on just tacking the first runner, collector and flange together and then do a test fit. If it all checks out, then I'm going to fully weld said parts, and then start on the collector for the number 2, then fully weld that, then finish with the outter two runners.

On a side note, yesterday I did the freescale 3 bar map sensor in stock housing, and it isn't turning out too well. Car won't idle or even rev past 2500. No cels with the proper map sensor selected in Crome, but still won't run right. I'm horrible at soldering, so I'm betting I cooked the sensor. I've go a buddy that is going to come do another one I have laying around tonight that actually knows what he's doing with an iron.

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #88 on:** July 08, 2009, 02:10:59 PM »

Thank goodness for friends that are electrical engineers. Big thanks to Red Chris for helping me with the 4bar freescale install. Car runs just fine when you don't cook the sensor.

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #89 on:** July 12, 2009, 09:19:51 PM »

Pics of the 4bar install

JB Weld doesn't conduct electricity. Case was filled with RTV sealant and let to dry overnight clamped together

Some other work I got done recently. Stock driver's side mount

Grind some rubber off

Make a template

Some junk flat stock I had laying around

Harbor Freight stepped drill bit. I think I paid 9 bucks for 3 of them. Well worth it, these things are awesome

Cut out and drilled

Drill bit wasn't big enough so had to enlarge the hole with the die grinder

One side done

Both sides done

Turbo tore apart to clock

Both the turbine and compressor housing are pinned. Now they both are not

Small hairline crack in the waste gate port. I don't think it will be a problem

One runner on

Took some test fitting, and sacraficing an elbow, but it looks pretty good

In car fit test. Down pipe shouldn't bee to bad to fab up

Still plenty of room

The only tight spot. Looks like a HX-35 would fitt too. I'll double check before final install

Thats it for now. Will weld up that runner and get started on the others soon.

News:

Author Topic: 350 or Bust - Love me some D: Getting a tune (Read 57148 times)

chris

chris